Yann Genoux is a qualified national route setter having done his course with the F.F.M.E. (trans, French Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing) in France.
He has set both the British Bouldering Championships and the British Lead Climbing Championships for 2 years in a row now.
Yann is recently back from setting a round of the IFSC Lead World Cup in Puurs, Belgium. We caught up with him last time he was in to get to know him a bit better and find out what he's up to when he's not setting at White Spider…
Name: Yann Genoux
Favourite Climbing Music: Upbeat for Comps, nothing outdoors.
Favourite Crag Food?: Potato Farls and Jelly Babies.
How did you first get into climbing? When I was working in France the son of my boss was Francois Lombard, (1st world Champion) he took me climbing 🙂 I was really inspired and hooked straight away.
How long have you been climbing? 9 years now
What is your proudest achievement in climbing? Getting out almost every weekend even though I live in London!
What's your favorite problem/route you've ever done? Why was it so good? Freaky Ralph French 8a+ on Portland. It wasn't the highest grade I climbed but took the most attempts. A real challenge for me being shorter because the moves were very long.
Where is your favourite crag? In UK: Cheedale Cornice. Outside UK: Siruana.
If you could give someone one piece of advice for their climbing, what would it be? Don't let go, ha ha, no… stop pretending to try and actually try harder.
Who or what inspires you, and where do you get your motivation from? Climbing: Killian Fischuber, amazing in every way. Route Setting: Jacky Godoffe, the maestro and legend of setters.
If you hadn't got into climbing, what do you think you'd be doing instead? Easy, I used to be a carpenter so I would continue that.
How long have you been route setting? 6 years
What do you love most about setting? Making people fall off 😉 Forcing people to make moves outside of their comfort zones.
This year (and last year) you have set the British Bouldering Championships and British Lead Climbing Championships. How were those experiences? It was great to set national championships in the country where I live. I know everyone and the vibe is always good. The setting teams work hard to meet the requirements of the climbers. The standard of climbing is getting higher and higher in this country and it's interesting to watch this develop form one year to next.
You recently set your 1st World Cup in Puurs, Belgium. How was that? HARD!!! A different world. Setting and testing 8a's – 8c's all day for several days in a row is tough work, and knowing that you are setting for the strongest climbers in the world and having to separate them to get the podium results. If they all fall off at the same point – no result. If they all top the route – no result, so it has to be just right. Quote from the chief setter Christian Bindhammer sums it up….. “This is not a children's birthday party, this is a World Cup”! I Loved it! I can't wait to do more.